Tucked away between St Ives and St Just lies the picturesque village of Zennor. It may be hard to find, but it is well worth exploring, for there is an extraordinary amount of history packed into such a tiny space. Legendary writer D.H. Lawrence and his German wife, Frieda, were once ejected from the village during the First World War, suspected of being German spies. Despite the experience, Lawrence still sang Cornwall’s praises in writing, and drew inspiration from the locale.
Being so close to St Ives, it is hardly surprising that Zennor has some strong connections to the popular seaside town. We take a look at some of the links, both big and small, that join these two idyllic Cornish places together.
Local Zennor granite used in St Ives and Falmouth
Most Cornish towns and villages thrived off the land or sea in one way or another. The principle activities were farming, mining, and fishing. Interestingly, Zennor took part in all three, taking advantage of the plentiful flat land, the copper and tin filled rocks and crags, and the ocean below to harvest fish. The rocks around Zennor also provided plenty of material for quarrying, and much granite was collected from the landscape around the town. This granite was used across Cornwall, in particular to construct many buildings in St Ives. It could be said that the town owes much of its existence to the tiny village of Zennor. Falmouth, Cornwall’s biggest port, also owes it harbour walls to the hard work of Zennor quarries.
Coastal walk to St Ives
St Ives and Zennor are physically connected by footpaths, weaving around the striking coastline for a chance to take in not only the landscape, but also some of the local wildlife. If you are lucky, you’ll be able to spot seals and dolphins. If you’re very lucky, maybe even a Basking shark. The walk is a little demanding; at six miles long it will take you around four hours to complete, but it is a very rewarding experience all the same. On the way back, you can make things a little easier for yourself by taking a shortened two-hour route across the fields, or even get the bus back (depending upon the time of year and the current timetable, of course).
Many a tourist in St Ives will enjoy Moomaid of Zennor ice cream
You can get a taste of Zennor without even having to leave St Ives, thanks to the delicious products from Tremedda Farm. Moomaid of Zennor is a luxury range of ice creams made using only the finest local ingredients, including milk and cream from Zennor, Rhodda’s clotted cream, and freshly picked fruits. The family-run farm produces over 30 different flavours of ice cream and sorbet. Whether as a tasty treat or a delicious dessert, visitors to St Ives can enjoy Moomaid of Zennor ice cream in a number of places.